Trip report, South Africa, Dec 09/Jan 10


Living, Food and Diving:
Our trip basically had three parts.
Part 1. We started with four days of diving in Aliwal Shoals, a reef area near the sleepy town of Umkomaas, a 30min drive south of Durban. We stayed at a self-serve apartment-style guesthouse on the Fontana farm . Our dive operator, Africa Dive Expeditions, is operated by Debbie Smith. Fantastic dive op, highly recommended. On the first day, Debbie drove us around all of Umkomaas and nearby Scottburgh, so we had no trouble driving to food/shop rest of the stay. Fontana also turned out to be nice place to stay, very comfortable, great views, and bunch of pet dogs that are ready to play any time. The staff would come by in the morning and cook breakfast downstairs, and we'd go down from the upstairs bedrooms to eat. We tried a few places to eat in Umkomaas (The Shoal is good), and Scottburgh (Enzo's has pizza, Bell and Anchor has decent seafood).

We were supposed to dive four days (two on Aliwal shoal, two days shark dives), but all dives were cancelled on day 3, heavy winds caused rough seas. Diving conditions were ok, water was 22C and viz 12m or so. We rented 5mm wetsuits. I caught a cold on day 1, and had trouble equalizing the rest of the trip. Here's the diving:
Day 1. Aliwal shoal. 2 dives, bith at Raggie cave.
Day 2. Aliwal shoal. 1 dive, Dropped in Raggie cave, swam to Cathedral.
Day 4. Shark dive.
So a total of four dives over four days?! We sometimes do four/day in Asia. Yet we were pretty tired each day, since the boat ride is rough, and the water cold (though we didn't fight currents).

Part 2. Kruger safari From Durban, we flew into Nelspruit and then drove to the Grand Kruger Lodge, in Marloth park south of Kruger. We did two full-day drives in Kruger, and on one day we did a bush walk in the am, and then a night drive. This lodge turned out to be a reasonable choice; food was buffet-style, but the chef is pretty good. We stayed in the rooms called bush camp, but in reality were two-story huts with aircon and modern bathrooms and nice beds. So except for the 45min bumpy ride to and from Kruger's crocodile bridge gate each day, all was good. The Kruger national park itself turned out to be surprisingly good. The sheer abundance of wildlife is amazing; the scenery is superb.

Part 3. From Kruger we flew to Cape Town. On the first day there, we drove 2 hrs southeast to the coastal town on Gansbaai, touted as the Great White capital of S Africa. We'd booked to do a great white sighting and cage-dive tour with an operation called Shark adventures, whose website claims to run small-group tours. But they re-booked us with a cattle operator called Marine Dynamics out of Gansbaai, and operator I would not go with if they paid me. In any case, my feeling is that this entire great white tour thing is best avoided in the African summer months -- underwater visibility is low, the only operations running are in Gansbaai, and all boats look like tourist cattleships.

For the next three nights, we stayed in the excellent Westin Grand hotel in Cape Town. This gave us two full days to explore Cape town, but we were pretty travel-weary by now. On Day 1 we did a full-day guided tour of the cape peninsula, including jackass penguin viewing at Boulders beach, some gentle hiking near Cape of good hope, and a boat trip to Duicker Island to see the cape fur seal colonies. There are tons of operators doing this tour, and it's a good choice for first-timers since the guide gives out random trivia that would take forever to read up otherwise. On day 2 we drove to the lower cable station, and then hiked up the famous table mountain. Food is good in Cape Town. There are several decent touristy restaurants in the Victoria Harborfront (we tried Sevruga and Den Anker), which is a 15min walk from our hotel. It's also a pleasant place to spend some time.. reminiscent of the Fisherman's wharf in SF. There are many decent local restaurants (we tried the Fire Flies).

About the photos: The underwater photos were mainly taken by our new Canon G11 camera in the canon WP-DC34 housing, with my trusty old Inon Z220s strobe. Kitty used my older Canon G7 in its Canon housing. First impressions of the G11 are good. The photos above ground were mostly taken by a Canon 500D camera with a Canon 70-200 F4.0 L lens (made available kindly by my friend Pedro). I have grouped the photos in two sequences: the Underwater ones first (and including those from the great-white trip), followed by the Kruger and Cape town ones.



0_fontana_0244_t.jpg

0_fontana_0274_t.jpg

0_fontana_0279_t.jpg

0_fontana_1045_t.jpg

0_fontana_1056_t.jpg

0_gansbaai_0505_t.jpg

anemone_0190_t.jpg

angelfish_0258_t.jpg

bigeye_0188_t.jpg

blacktip_0308_t.jpg

blacktip_0311_t.jpg

blacktip_0336_t.jpg

blacktip_0343_t.jpg

blacktip_0368_t.jpg

blacktip_0377_t.jpg

blacktip_0403_t.jpg

blacktip_0408_t.jpg

great-white_0525_t.jpg

great-white_0558_t.jpg

hawkfish_0261_t.jpg

lobster_0238_t.jpg

moray_5597_t.jpg

nudibranch_0223_t.jpg

potato-cod_0185_t.jpg

potato-cod_0268_t.jpg

raggie_0165_t.jpg

raggie_0210_t.jpg

raggie_0211_t.jpg

raggie_0216_t.jpg

raggie_0220_t.jpg

raggie_0251_t.jpg

raggie_0255_t.jpg

raggie_0256_t.jpg

seagull_0509_t.jpg

snappers_0235_t.jpg

stingray_0234_t.jpg

tiger-shark_0346_t.jpg

tiger-shark_0393_t.jpg

tiger_shark_0341_t.jpg
End of UW pix.

0_cape-of-storms_0658_t.jpg

0_cape-point_0656_t.jpg

0_cormorant_0673_t.jpg

0_dwarf-pine_0679_t.jpg

0_early-bloomer_0694_t.jpg

0_penguin_0635_t.jpg

0_penguin_0648_t.jpg

0_seal_0590_t.jpg

0_seal_0596_t.jpg

0_seal_0612_t.jpg

0_seal_0613_t.jpg

0_table-mountain_1502_t.jpg

1_elephant_0492_t.jpg

1_elephant_1401_t.jpg

1_guinea-fowl_1133_t.jpg

1_leopard_1153_t.jpg

1_lion_1158_t.jpg

1_rhino_1300_t.jpg

1_rhino_1301_t.jpg

1_zebra_1186_t.jpg

baboon_1181_t.jpg

baboon_1195_t.jpg

buffalo-skull_0422_t.jpg

buffalo_1473_t.jpg

croc_1457_t.jpg

eagle_1259_t.jpg

elephant_0446_t.jpg

elephant_0486_t.jpg

elephant_1248_t.jpg

elephant_1251_t.jpg

elephant_1446_t.jpg

elephant_1450_t.jpg

european-roller_1261_t.jpg

european-roller_1292_t.jpg

giraffe_1343_t.jpg

giraffe_a_1498_t.jpg

hippo_1273_t.jpg

hippo_1385_t.jpg

hippo_1393_t.jpg

impala_1104_t.jpg

impala_1145_t.jpg

kudu_1282_t.jpg

kudu_1429_t.jpg

leopard_1331_t.jpg

leopard_1332_t.jpg

leopard_1373_t.jpg

leopard_1377_t.jpg

lion_1078_t.jpg

lion_1169_t.jpg

lion_1321_t.jpg

lion_1327_t.jpg

locust_0425_t.jpg

monitor_0457_t.jpg

rhino_1095_t.jpg

rhino_1418_t.jpg

rhino_1422_t.jpg

rhino_1430_t.jpg

rhino_1431_t.jpg

stork_1188_t.jpg

stork_1407_t.jpg

vulture_1366_t.jpg

waterbuck_0451_t.jpg

weaver_1348_t.jpg

wildebeest_1118_t.jpg

wildebeest_1123_t.jpg

x_roller_1289_t.jpg

yellowbill-hornbill_0490_t.jpg

zebra_1285_t.jpg

zebra_1356_t.jpg

zebra_1359_t.jpg

zebra_1360_t.jpg

If you want the original of any of these, send me email.