Maldives Male and South Ari on MV Happy Days, Jan 07


The boat and food, Diving and Photos
The big reason we wanted to dive in Maldives in Jan/Feb was to see whale sharks. The chances are better, I think, on a liveaboard.

We flew into Male after midnight of Jan 6, and were on board Happy days at approx 2:30am. The lone crew awake pointed to the dive-board: check out dive at 6am: we gave that one a miss.

About the boat and food:
It is fairly large, with capacity for 20 divers. This week there were ten: three Swiss couples, Kitty and me, and a Spanish couple Javier and Vanessa. On the boat, the Swiss usually hung out together, while we were happy to spend most of our time chatting with the Spaniards. The boat is run by the enigmatic manager/captain/part-owner Ibrahim, a character straight out of a Maugham story. The food was fairly good, every meal had a pasta as well as some local dishes, plus a few salads and fried veggies, dessert and fruit.

About the Diving:
Most dives were characterized by strong currents, visibility from 15-20m, water at 24-28 C (3mm full suits), tons of plankton. Not the best conditions for photography, but almost every dive brought big fish like sharks and tuna, plus turtles. There isn't much colorful soft coral, but several types of hard coral. There is much coral bleaching, and tons of broken coral. The lack of coral colors is made up by the sheer density of fishes -- more than any other place I have dived.

We had one DM (Hassan) with ten divers; usually the Swiss group stayed close to him, Kitty and I lagged 20-40m behind, depending on what we were photographing, and the Spaniards were off chasing sharks, periodically intersecting our path. I don't keep dive logs, so I'll just list the itinerary we made:

Day 1, Dive 1. Banana Reef, N. Male. [fish soup; many large moray eels; lots of broken hard coral]
Day 1, Dive 2. Furana Out (Full moon), N Male. [white tip sharks, turtles, red-tooth triggerfish]

Day 2, Dive 1. Manta point, north of Paradise Island in N Male. [no mantas; lobsters, turtles, clown triggerfish]
Day 2, Dive 2. Enboodu Kandu, S Male. [White tip sharks @ 34m, moray eels]; hi-speed drift at 15m.
Day 2, Dive 3. Gulhi corner, S Male. [Strong currents; yellow-fin tuna, sharks, turtles]

Day 3, Dive 1. Kudagiri wreck, S Male. [wreck is rather bare -- no coral; lots of small fish; easy dive].
Day 3, Dive 2. Kandooma Thila, S Male. [strong currents; lots of soft coral, colorful. shark, turtle, small fish]
Day 3, Dive 3. Guraidhoo reef, S Male. [~1 Km long reef, high-speed drift one end to other].

Day 4, Dive 1. Guraidhoo Kandu, S Male. [ white tips and Grey shark, Napoleon wrasse, snake at safety stop]
-- 5 hour sail South Ari atoll.
Day 4, Dive 2. Buli Thila, S Ari. [large Sting ray, sharks].

Day 5, Dive 1. Dhigurah Thila, S Ari. [Long thila, no currents, easy dive, lots of small, big fish]
-- 2 hours spent cruising for Whale sharks. There were 4-5 liveaboards, all moving slowly up and down along the reef edge (Sun Island resort area). If a whale shark is spotted, 30-40 people from the boats jump in the water, and swim madly in the hope of getting a view of the gentle beast. First one sighted, only Javier could swim fast enough to get a glimpse. An hour later, a second one was sighted, and Happy days sped to the spot. We all jumped in, and most of our group, except me, saw this one.
Day 5, Dive 2. Maamigili Out, S Ari. [no currents, Leopard shark, white tips, millions of glass fish]
Day 5, Dive 3 (night). Dhigurah Arches, S Ari. [nice and simple; moray eels, large puffer].

Day 6, Dive 1. Kudarah Thila. [Best dive of the trip; millions of colorful fish, sharks, tuna].
-- 5 hour haul back to Male.
There was one more dive in Male, but we had to sit out, since we fly back late that night (3 am).

About the photos:
I'd been itching to upgrade from my trusty old Oly C5050. After much vacillating, I decided to get the new Canon G7 and the Canon WP-DC11 housing. I got it the day before we left, but the user guide was in Chinese; so I shot mostly in 'P' mode. I used it with my Inon Z220s strobe on slave -- external strobe is a must for this housing: the long nose that accommodates the zoom lens also blocks the camera's flash from illuminating the lower left quarter of any image. Over the next couple of trips, I'll find out how good this camera is. This time, neither the dive conditions (plankton, currents), nor my level of familiarity with the camera were optimum. Kitty used her Canon S80, in the Canon WP-DC1 housing, but took only a few photos.
The thumbnails below are linked to larger photos; the file name indicates which camera was used. The photos were edited (sometimes a lot) using Photoshop-Elements.


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If you'd like to get the original of any of these, send me email. This thumbnail-page was created by IrfanView, followed by much editing in Frontpage.